A ceramic lamp featuring a vibrantly hand painted scene of a working man with his mule walking through a town being followed by a dog. 6 1/2" across the mid-body and stands 11 /14" tall to the top of the ceramic lamp body with an additional 2 1/2" when factoring in the socket. The bottom of the lamp is signed "Lapithos Cyprus" and the condition is very good, with no chips, cracks, or repairs. The lamp does not come with a shade and although the lamp is in working condition, the cord and socket show age, and it is recommended that the lamp be rewired before use.
Choosing the Right Lamp Shade for a Lamp Base
There are many lamp shade sizes and styles (empire, oval, drum, square) and luckily, there are simple equations and guidelines to ensure that your lamp shade looks correct on your lamp base. First, consider the shape of the lamp. A lamp looks best when matched with a shade that has a similar shape. So, if the base is round, a round lamp shade (empire or drum) is the most appropriate shape. A square or angular base looks great with a square lamp shade, and so on. As for the math:
Start by measuring your lamp base. Measure across the widest point, and then measure the height from the bottom to the top (excluding the light socket). The shade width should be twice as wide as the base and about 2/3 the height of the base. For example, if a lamp is 8" wide, the width of the shade should be 16" (8" x 2 = 16"), and if the lamp height is 20" (not including light socket), the shade height should be 13" (0.667 x 20 =13". 0.667 is the fraction 2/3 converted into a decimal then multiplied by the lamp base height). If your measurements fall in-between numbers, choose the larger size, and if your shade shows about 1/2" of the lamp neck, that's not a big deal.
Some lamp bases have harp fittings or harp cups already attached. A harp fitting is the metal u-shaped piece with ends that squeeze inside the little saddles of the harp cup found below the light socket. The harp fitting is secured in place with little caps that slide over the saddles. The harp supports the lampshade and protects the light bulb. If your lamp base has a harp and/or harp cup, you'll need to choose a shade with a spider fitter. A spider fitter is a lamp shade that has three arms that are integrated into the top of the shade with a hole in the center that sits over the top of the harp and is secured to the harp with a finial. Choose the correct lampshade first, then choose the correct harp size, but if your lamp comes with a harp fitting and you want to cover all bases with measurements, a general rule is to measure from the harp bottom to the shade rest at the top (where the finial is screwed into) and choose a shade that is no more or less than an inch taller than the harp. For example, if you have a 10-inch tall harp, your shade shouldn't be less than 9-1/2 inches or more than 10-1/2 inches tall. Compare this measurement with your lamp measurements to ensure that you have the correct harp fitting. If not, you may need to upgrade to a larger (or smaller) harp fitting.
Measurements to Take if You Have a Lampshade and Need a Lamp
- Measure across the top, bottom, vertical slant (side) and vertical height (side) of your lamp shade. See the measurements above to determine the best lamp base size for your lamp shade.
About Light Bulbs
In 2007, Congress passed the Energy Independence and Security Act which sets new energy-efficient standards for basic light bulbs. As a result, all standard 100-, 75-, 60- and 40-watt incandescent bulbs have, for the most part, been phased out (some are still in production). Compact Fluorescent (CFL) and Light Emitting Diode (LED) bulbs have replaced incandescent light bulbs and fit all standard light sockets and also emits the same light output (a.k.a. lumens--more lumens equals brighter light, fewer lumens equals dimmer light. Standard 100-watt bulbs produce about 1600 lumens) and lower wattage (the amount of energy a light bulb uses. The lower the watts, the lower the electric bill).
Some equivalents to incandescent lightbulbs are:
- Incandescent 100-watt = 72-watt halogen; 23-watt CFL; 14-16-watt LED
- Incandescent 75-watt = 53-watt halogen; 20-watt CFL; 12-13-watt LED
- Incandescent 60-watt = 43-watt halogen; 20-watt CFL; 8-9 watt LED
All lamps sold at The Standing Rabbit are pre-owned, and although they are tested and in working order at the time of sale (or if not working, clearly stated), we do not guarantee the safety of our lamps and are not responsible for any electrical problems once they leave our warehouse. As all lamps are sold in the same condition that we find them, and we can't guarantee their safety once they reach their new home, we strongly encourage the new owner to rewire prior to use. Rewiring an average lamp runs about $25.00 per lamp at many lamp stores.